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To celebrate this festive season, here’s some free prints for every one to use weeeeeee!

Please read before downloading:

The links contains downloads of prints by @handxmade, and is free for personal use ONLY. Do NOT distribute. Do print for yourself and enjoy the free card and print! ♥️ 

Let me know if you used ‘em! Would love to share them on my  Instagram Story! 😊


“Christmas Tree” Postcard Size Print at 10cm x 15cm (A4 size)
Pink Only (x2)
Green Only (x2)
Pink & Green (One of each)

“Christmas Tree” Card (A4 size)
Pink Only (x2)
Green Only (x2)
Pink & Green (One of each)

“Christmas Tree” Mini Print at 5cm x 7.5cm (A4 Size)
Pink Only (x10)
Green Only (x10)
Pink & Green (x5 of each)

If you’d like to customise your own size…here’s the original files:
”Christmas Tree” Pink
”Christmas Tree” Green

Some notes that might be of help:
I always print my prints on A4 matte photo paper (170gsm) and this pdf is catered to my printer, hopefully it will work well on yours too! I usually set it as coloured, photo quality, and scale to 97% so that they won't cut off anything from the file, especially for the cards (you might have to trim some whites off). The size might be a bit smaller than mentioned, but to me it’s better than getting anything cut off by the printer!

Hope this helps, and enjoy! 🎄✨



It’s been awhile since I wrote a “tutorial" kinda post! I couldn’t find any information I wanted online about a miniature glass globe holder, so I decided to YOLO and made one myself HAHA.

I’ll be writing about my thought process and everything, so if you want to jump straight to the tutorial just scroll down! 😀


When I was making this Sumikko Gurashi series, I needed to make a base for this miniko Obake - I wanted to auction it and it’d be weird to just auction Obake by itself…it’s too tiny to be an individual decoration hahaha.

Since Obake is essentially a ghost (a hecking cute one at that), I wanted it to kinda float! For Hokori (dust ball), I put him in a miniature bottle, but somehow I didn’t want the same for Obake.

I then remembered I had some miniature glass globe I had purchased (because I’m a hoarder), and heyyyyy Obake FITS!

However, I didn’t want to auction it as a necklace piece (which is what the glass globe is intended to be I’m assuming), and I remembered seeing glass globes holder around so I researched it and found a picture of it:


I figured this would make the perfect holder for the glass globe, and Obake will be able to float all the way!

Since I couldn’t find any tutorials online for this glass globe holder for miniatures, nor was anyone selling it, I decided to make one myself out of craft wires ✨✨✨

Here’s the end product! 💕


Yes it’s pretty tiny, but it fit my 2cm in diameter glass globe super well and I wouldn’t have it any other way! I’m so proud of it omg hahaha but it’s really easy to make, and I’ll show you every single step with GIFs below, so don’t worry 😉


Glass Globe/whatever your holder will be holding
(Note that my glass globe was 2cm in diameter,
and depending on the size of your glass globe, the size of the holder will vary)

Craft wire/jewellery wire (colour of your choice)
Wire cutter
Round Nose Plier
Flat Nose Plier

• Acrylic paint (if you don’t have craft wires in the colour you want)
• Paint brush
• Gloss varnish


Before we start, I would like to mention that my glass globe is 2cm in diameter, so the dimensions and measurements I’ll be providing will be for a glass globe of this size. I’ll be leaving tips on what to look out for if your glass globe is of different size, so don’t worry if the subject’s size is different from yours - you CAN use what you learn here to make a holder you need! 😊

That said, my holder’s dimension is 4cm in height, and 2.3cm in diameter for the base, for a glass globe of 2cm in diameter.

The GIFs provided below is in REAL TIME! It’s in an infinite loop, so you can take your time to watch it again and again if needed 😀

Take your craft wire, and unspool around 80cm worth of craft wire.

It’s always better to have MORE craft wire than less!

We will start from the base of the holder.

Fold the two ends of the 80cm wire together, and pinch the rounded side of the craft wire with a flat nose plier.

With your round nose plier, roll that same end into a circle. It might take awhile, so don’t rush through it and you’ll get the hang of it soon enough!

Switch the a flat nose plier to get a better grip after you get a circle!

For me, I find that once I spool it around a few times with the pliers, it was easier to use my fingers to roll the wire side by side - better control this way!

You need to build up the base with the craft wire to the diameter you need, which MUST be bigger than your glass globe in order for it to hold it up. For me, it was about 2.3cm in diameter for a 2cm in diameter glass globe. I would go for that or even 2.5cm for a good support, and I wouldn’t go too far as I didn’t want the base to be too big and make the whole decorative item look unproportionate.

This is purely personal preference and a stylistic choice, but the rule of thumb is to make sure the base of the holder is BIGGER than your object - so it will be able to support your object well without toppling over!

Once you reach the size of the base for the holder that you want, fold the excess wire to be perpendicular to the base. I used a flat nose plier after my fingers to ensure it sits perpendicular properly.

Twist the two wires together. Try to make it consistent if you can! One tip is to make sure you are twisting BOTH at the same time, not one wire over another.

Trim off the excess wire with a wire cutter!

I twisted about 9cm worth of wire. Again, MORE is better than less!

Take the twisted craft wire, lay it against the base, go through the last loop you made for the base. This is the ensure the twisted wire will stay in place and not move around so easily!

Bend the twisted craft wire into a crescent shape (or any shape you want, really), and trim off the excess! (the length for mine was about 6.5cm)

Use the round nose plier and curl the edge of the twisted wire into a hook - this will be what you will hook your object with, so make sure the end of the hook really points to the sky!

Note how I used the thickest end of my round nose plier! This will leave a lot of space for the glass globe to hook on to.

Put your glass globe and make sure:

  1. The glass globe or your object can go through the hook you made

  2. Size of the base is to your liking

  3. The base is flat and stable enough, and it can STAND with your object in place

For me, I only had silver craft wires when I was making this, so I decided to use gold acrylic paint to paint it to the colour I wanted!

There are other craft wires with colours around, as you can see here - so if you fancy, you could just get the colours you need and skip this step!

I switched to copper acrylic paint afterwards as it fits a lot better with the cover for my glass globe! 😊

Painting on craft wires is kinda tricky, the paint doesn’t stay that well and it kinda pools together. You can use a primer if you’d like, or you could just paint a few layers like what I did.


Remember to use a varnish to lock the acrylic paint down better! I use FIMO gloss varnish, as I want the glossy look from the acrylic paint.

And you’re done! Congratulations! 💕✨

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A little extra note, just in case you’r interested/want to try to have a single line instead of the twist.

The reason why I did it this way is because just using one piece of wire isn’t stable enough for this to carry the glass globe without toppling. In fact, it was actually having trouble standing by itself! Having double the wire increased the weight of the base too, which should be heavier than the glass globe itself to ensure the best stability.

I prefer the look of the twisted wire too as it was easier to shape it to a smoother crescent, whereas one wire can look sloppy especially since it would bring attention to all the imperfection a lot more.

I just wanted to tell you about the thought process so in case you want to try another method, you’ll know what’s needed for the holder to be a stable one for your own craft! 😊

….and this is the end of the tutorial! I hope this helped you, especially when I couldn’t find any tutorial online myself. This would be great to hold any glass globe you have and use them as a decor instead of a necklace (especially if your glass globe’s cover is like mine!)

Hope it was easy to understand, and let me know if you have any questions! You can contact me via my Instagram @handxmade where I’m the most active, or email me at info@handxmade.com 💖Do share it with me through these medium if you made one yourself too, I would love to see it and share it! 😊 

This post includes links that are part of Amazon's affiliate program, which helps support me a little! If you're interested in the things I've recommended and would like to purchase one for yourself, it would be amazing if you could use the links provided 💕Handxmade is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


This article is going to be ALL ABOUT GLUE

The best way to do it is imo is to show you how it works and try to tear it apart after they're done drying. It's going to be on the same material, with the same shape, which makes this 'experiment' much more accurate!

I waited about 10 hours for the glues to dry before I start ripping them apart. I think most glue recommendation is about at least 12 hours or 24 hours...but I thought 10 could be enough. Hence results might vary if you wait a but longer (ain't nobody got time for that though 😆) I'll list out the pros and cons too in my opinion for the glues. 

Do note that for glues, it's mostly for:

1. Sticking baked polymer clay to baked polymer clay.
If you're gonna stick raw to raw/raw to baked clay, I recommend just using liquid clay

2. Sticking any other materials to baked polymer clay.
Like magnets, threads, earring backings etc. 

My tests is only for baked polymer clay on baked polymer clay, but I think it would work for situation 2 too, don't think it really matters, as polymer clay is still the main material.

I'll start with the glues that I don't really recommend, so if you want to see what I DO recommend, just scroll to the bottom! 😊 



UHU glue is one of the most comment glue that people use for baked polymer clay. Most of the time....it's for projects that you're NOT going to sell/just a temporary fix. 

One of the PROS of UHU glue is that it's kinda gooey, and you can adjust the placement of the item even after you put it on so it's cool to make mistakes here! 

But because of this, it does take quite a bit to dry. 

When it's semi-dried, you can actually sue a tweezer to remove the excess glue, which makes the gluing process looks quite clean!

I have two experiment for all the glue, and for the first one, I only glue half of it, so I can see if it's easy to pry it out, hence it's just purely  the strength of the glue. For the second one, I glue the whole thing which would make it a lot tougher to pry out 😊 

Here's why I don't really recommend it. As you can see, it took me no effort at all to remove the two pieces, and the glue itself can be pried off easily from the clay! It doesn't really BOND with the clay and makes it very easy to be removed. 

Even the 2nd experiment failed miserably. Yes it did take me a little bit more effort but there wasn't much resistance at all haha. 


E6000 is actually one of the glues that was highly recommended for polymer clay, and honestly, I believed in it until one day @msparkpark told me it was really easy to remove it and I only realised that it really was basically UHU glue after I tried it out. It was quite disappointing. 

Maybe it would have done better if I waited for 24 hours or so, but what @msparkpark told me was her charm HAD BEEN there for quite some time and it was easy to remove it ☹️ 

Here's how the texture is like! Maybe slightly more easier to control than UHU glue. 

Still adjustable etc after gluing, so same rules from UHU glue applies to E6000! You can still adjust if you need to after gluing. 


I do think it's a little bit better than UHU glue but mannnnnnn. I think it does bond with the clay itself a little, but really not enough to make it stick well. 

Same goes here. Trust me, these little pieces were really hard to bend without losing control of it, and the fact that it was so easily removed really says something. 

If you like this kind of glue, I would recommend E6000 over UHU though! There must be a reason why some people rave about it and it DOES sticks a littttttle bit better than UHU glue. 



Resin glue! 

I've been using resin glue for the longest time and honestly, I believed in it and was so sure that my pieces were stuck on well. 


How resin glue works is that you have two parts, A and B. One of them is basically the hardener, which dries the resin up. You put out equal amounts of it, and mix those two equal parts together. 

It works like epoxy resin, but they call this a glue so I'm assuming it's a bit better to use it as a glue haha. 

I use a toothpick to apply most glue, especially resin glue since I have to mix them anyway! It's just much more convenient and if I forgot about it and left it on the paper I can just throw it away, instead of cleaning my tools haha. 

Resin glue takes the LONGEST to dry out of the lot, and I honestly didn't mind especially if it was going to bond the pieces together well. 24 hours is the recommended waiting time, like normal epoxy resin! 

Since it takes some time to dry, you can always adjust it if needed. 😊 

I was sooooo disappointed when I could easily tore the pieces out 😭 

The resin glue was like a piece on its own though, unlike the UHU glue or E6000, which is still a little bit sticky and gooey. It also means that it's not that flexible, so if you're gluing it on pieces that needs to bend, this might not be a very good idea as the bending might make the glue come loose. 

The piece that was glued completely did a lot better though, as you can see! I couldn't take it out at all and I was really using a lot of strength! 

This GIF didn't show it breaking off but after I stopped recording I tried it again and it came off hahahahaha. 

I think it could be the brand of the resin glue too? This was a gift from @msparkpark so I can try it out, and I think it was bought from Daiso! Maybe the higher grade ones do a lot better. 

I might give resin glue another chance and one day buy a better quality kind, because it IS nice to be able to move things around before it dries completely! 

For resin glue though, you'd have to be careful because it does have a sort of tint to it, and if you're gluing white pieces together it might be reaaaally obvious! 

Seeing how the glue takes so much effort to prepare, and let dry, yet it's so easily break, I don't think I'll use them to stick my magnets (which I've been doing anymore) hahaha.



Liquid clay can be used as a glue too! It's essentially polymer clay in liquid form, and so, it bonds quite well with polymer clay! 

It really depends on what kind of thing you stick it with though. I don't recommend gluing other stuff like earring backings with it because it's still polymer clay and you CAN break it if you want to/if it isn't baked properly

One good thing about liquid clay is that it doesn't dry AT ALL until you leave it to bake! After baking, you can know for sure it's dry too, and that takes like 1 hour maximum? 😊 (Not 24 hours geez)

Being able to adjust it is important especially when you need the pieces to join seamlessly! Example if it's a piece that broke off etc. 

I put a bit too much liquid clay and it kinda went into the whole piece, so it was hard to find an opening haha. 

The liquid clay does bond well as you can see!! I use liquid clay whenever I put raw pieces together so it's nice to know that it works well hahahaha. 


Of course since I'm at it I should try Sculpey liquid clay, which is the liquid clay I use the most 😊 

Sculpey liquid clay is white, but it turns translucent after baking! It IS more obvious after baking than FIMO though so do take note! 

Sculpey liquid clay is also a little bit thicker than FIMO, so it's a little bit easier to control it imo!

I am assuming that since both are liquid clay, the results will be similar. Here's how the liquid clay bonds with the polymer clay! It really shows how it seeps into the clay. 

It was really tough to break this and I actually gave up hahaa it was quite painful 🤣 

Again, I only recommend liquid polymer clay for baked polymer clay pieces! I think putting liquid clay on other materials is a whole new level since you'd have think about whether the material can be baked in the oven, and how if the material isn't as flexible it MIGHT break the liquid clay bond easily. So I myself would use liquid clay strictly for polymer clay only 😊 



I think people give too little credit to superglue for polymer clay. IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM?!!? 

it does have quite a bit of cons like how superglue dries up so quick that you don't really have enough time to adjust the pieces at all, and how some brands leave a white residue after it's dry when you try to wipe it off. 

Look at how fast it dried up!! 😱😅 I couldn't even turn it and it got stuck like this HAHAHAHA. I'll definitely use liquid clay/resin glue if I need to fix polymer clay pieces and NOT superglue hahaa. 

But this would be AMAZING to glue like, earring backings or even magnets! 😍 

See what I mean? hahaha. If you try to pry it out the clay pieces breaks off instead lolol 

This hurt me so much hahahaha IT BONDS VERY WELL.

Another cons of superglue is that the bottle themselves DRIES UP when you don't close it quick enough, or even just storing it wrongly. For me, I put my super glue in zip lock bags so it extends the life of an opened superglue a lot better 🤣 

Also, sometimes when the glue is at the tip of the applicator, it dries up THERE too and you can't get anything out.....One tip from a hobby shop owner is to just trim the tip haha, but I find that squeezing the tube in the opposite way you squeezed previously helps to get the glue BACK inside the tube itself, and hence NOT BLOCKING the tip of the applicator. You will have less risk of gluing the cap on the glue's applicator too ahaha 👍🏻 




I was actually out of super glue that day, and was out to find more when I saw these Scotch superglues! There were this NO RUN GEL written on it and I was pretty amused by it. You mean it's superglue but it's not really liquid SO IT DOESN'T GO ALL OVER THE PLACE?? 


The bottle itself was really interesting! Only the middle portion squeezes and even so, it was relatively easy to control the amount of glue I wanted. I think they got some engineering right for super glue because I realised that the tip doesn't get blocked at all? The cover also doesn't touch the tip so it wasn't going to stick on the cap hahaa. I didn't even put them in a ziplock bag and had no problems with them so far! GOOD PACKAGING 👍🏻 

Here's the liquid one, which is basically like all the other super glue, just glue and place it on!

It really dries very fast though, as usual 😶 

No chance of adjusting at all hahahahahahahaha

But look at how good it bonds with polymer clay! I was so happy when I saw this hahaha. 

Again this hurt me so I stopped hahaa. The glue does dry a but glossy, but there's no white residue so that's a good start! 

Now's the test for the no run gel. Is it really like superglue??? Will it stick as well??

As you can see, it's really like jelly and yep, no running at all hurhur. 

AND I ALSO CAN'T ADJUST ANYTHING AT ALL WITH THIS NO RUN GEL it's really like superglue I am so amazed hahaha

And here's similar results to all the superglues 🤣 


The no run gel does make it so much easier to control, and I didn't get a lot of it on my finger etc. Makes it easier to wipe the excess off, but it still does "stain" the clay and the glossy glue stain is still there when it dries!

I did try to clean it off with my to-go nail polish remover, and it does go away. But not as much as I'd like. I'm sure I CAN make it go away altogether, but black polymer clay doesn't go that well with the remover hahaa. It works though, so that's all it matters! Just don't put SO MUCH GLUE like I did la hahhahaa. 

I used the no run gel for my Mini Christmas Ornaments and I was so happy about it because it sticks so well AND dries so fast AND THE GLUE STAY WHERE I WANT IT TO!!! I love it so much 😍✨ 

Alright! Hope this long post filled with GIFS does show you the different types of glues I have and how I use them (or not use them at all haha) I'm glad I found the Scotch Superglue and can share them with you because it really is the best find of the month! ♥️ 

Let me know if any information is wrong, or if you have different results with the glue! Maybe time/humidity does make a difference, and it'd be interesting to know your experiment! 😊 


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Yaye! It's Christmas, which means it's the season of giving so here I am giving you the colour recipe for the miniature ornaments I made for my Daiso Christmas Tree makeover! 😊

I'll also be explaining some things that might not be immediately obvious from the video hohoho! 

As usual, please make sure you watch the video to get a rough idea of how everything is made and how! 😊 

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The things that I made are BAUBLES, CANDY CANES, a STAR, and some PRESENTS!

Tools and the things you will need for this are as follow! You can click the link to the articles I wrote about for each tools individually for a better understanding of the tools. I haven't written some of them, but when I do I'll update this post 😊 

X-ACTO Knife

Needle Tool
Curved Needle Tool

Liquid Clay
Pocket Roller (optional)

Tweezers (optional)
Rubber Stamp Block Acrylic (optional)

Other things you'll need:
Working Surface
PearlEx or Glitters (optional)
A dab of blutack
Kikki.K Fake Snow (optional)
A small plate to catch the fake snow (optional)
Fairy Lights (optional)


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The colour recipe format would be as follow: 

Name of clay colour on packaging (how much of it)
[name of PearlEx colour I used]

If you're unsure, do read my article about colour recipe.



Cobalt Blue Hue (1)
[True Blue]

Pomogranate (1)
[Super Russet]

Green (1) : Spanish Olive (1/4)
[Spring Green]

Silver (1)
[Pearl White]

Antique Gold (1)
[Brillant Gold]

For baubles, it is relatively straightforward! 

First, soften the clay with your fingers, roll it into a ball.

Poke your needle tool through the ball. You want to leave a hole for the strings you'll be putting through the bauble later on!

I use an eyepin to expand the hole a bit more. You can use a thicker needle tool, but make sure the tool is SHARP, otherwise you might distort the ball!

This part is optional, but since I had tons of PearlEx that I've never used, I decided to use it for this project! The gold and silver clay is already shiny, but it can't compete with PearlEx hahaha. 

Putting PearlEx on raw clay helps to stick it to the clay better after baking 😊

For the Baubles, especially for the coloured ones, I actually left some WITHOUT the PearlEx so there's some more variety (I love matte textures!) and I quite like the effect it has on the Christmas Tree!

Roll it around your finger to make sure every part gets the PearlEx! 😊 

Bake the baubles!

Put your thread through the baked bauble, tie a knot big enough so the bauble gets stuck there (for me it's three times), and then tie it so that you leave a gap to hang the baubles later on!


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(same as Baubles)
Green (1) : Spanish Olive (1/4)

White (1) : Translucent (1)

Cadmium Red Hue (1)

For the candy canes, the most important part is to roll it out as a snake as evenly as possible. I'm not sure how to explain it with words, that's how the GIFs comes to save the day! 

I usually will use two fingers, I feel that I have better control of the clay while rolling compared to rolling with one finger. 

Another example! See how I always use two of my fingers and going from left to right to even it out. 

When it's long enough, I'll use my other finger to "stretch" the clay while I roll and control the clay with my right hand! 

Place the two colours at opposite direction from each other.

From this GIF you can see the thickness I made for the WHITE vs GREEN and RED2 clay. GREEN and RED2 is at least half the thinness than WHITE!

Squeeze RED2 and GREEN to WHITE, making it stick to each other, so it doesn't come out when you twist the clay.

Twist it to the distance you want for each colour, and try to make it as even as you can! Start rolling the clay again after twisting it. You might feel a bit scared to ruin it but trust yourself, don't think too much and just do it!

It might start to look like the distance of the colours is a bit further than you intend to be, but as long as the distance is CONSISTENT, you can always adjust it afterwards 😊 

Here I'm just rolling it out a bit more, adjusting the distance while I'm thinning the snake. 

Remember to "stretch" the clay to actually thin it! 😊  

Once you get the desired thickness, you can cut them into size and start to bend them into candy canes! 

TIP: Roll it a teeeeeny bit thicker than you want the size to be. Since clay turns a little bit crackly after you left it out a bit, what you want to do is to roll out the clay that has been left out (which will happen since you're gonna make tons of candy canes with this), and that will "warm" the clay up a little bit, so when you bend it, it wouldn't crack! But this will make the candy cane a bit thinner. 

Bend the top into a candy cane shape like so! You can use an E-XATO knife to trim the edges to make it a little bit sharper.

In my video, you see me do that, and I just use the knife on my fingers HAHA. Do not do that unless you're very comfortable with your knife and know what you're doing ok! Put it down on your surface and cut it there if you're worried you'll get cut! 

You only need to tie the thread on one end, since you'll glue the string to the candy cane 😀 It hides the thread better if it's straight! 


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Cadmium yellow (1)
[Aztec Gold]

Pinch 5 sides from YELLOW clay. Try to make sure they're even as much as you can!

Use any of your tool's cylinder shape to make the indent of the star a little bit deeper. 

I focused on shaping one side of the star first so I get a better idea of how I want the star to look like! Smoothen the rough edges made by the previous step.

Flip to the other side, and blend with your fingers! 

Poke your needle tool through again, and this time, you can make the hole bigger (make sure you can put on top of the tree!)

Rub your PearlEx colours or glitters over the star!  


After baking, I use a dab of blutack to help the star to stick on the top of the Christmas Tree a bit better! ☺ 


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I don't really want to get into presents a lot since it's relatively straight forward. You make a square/rectangle, cut out some stripes of clay with your blade, and put them on the presents with the help if liquid clay!

I used random PearlEx colours for these, and I find that PearlEx on black polymer clay looks a bit nicer! You can make patterns like I did by "drawing" random lines on the PearlEx before you bake the clay! 😊 

Here's a real-time GIF of how I make the squares with the rubber stamp acrylic block which I thought will be helpful. I find that making flat surfaces this way is better than using our fingers because our fingers aren't completely straight hahaha. 

Use your creativity to make different kinds of ribbon style, colours shapes! Obviously I don't have that much creativity HAHA. 

I've linked this video to the part where I start making the presents, in case you want to see more! 

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There you have it, all the ornaments I made for this DAISO Christmas Tree makeover! I thought it will be nice to share this, and it'd be a good beginner "tutorial" since it's relatively simple yet there's some challenging parts. 

Hopefully this was helpful and you learnt some helpful tips too!

FULL COLOUR RECIPE (for convenience sake 😉)


Cobalt Blue Hue (1)
[True Blue]

Pomogranate (1)
[Super Russet]

GREEN (same as candy cane)
Green (1) : Spanish Olive (1/4)
[Spring Green]

Silver (1)
[Pearl White]

Antique Gold (1)
[Brillant Gold]


(same as Baubles)
Green (1) : Spanish Olive (1/4)

White (1) : Translucent (1)

Cadmium Red Hue (1)


Cadmium yellow (1)
[Aztec Gold]

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Merry Christmas from both ET and I! ♥️🎄✨ 


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Original painting for this free printable! I cleaned up the lettering on photoshop for the prints itself because I can't stand it hahaha. 

Here's the video of how I painted this piece, with horrendous sketches 🤣 

Please read before downloading:

The links contains downloads of prints by @handxmade, and is free for personal use ONLY. Do NOT distribute. Do print for yourself and enjoy the free card and print! ♥️ 

If you use the wallpaper or my sketch to paint one for yourself, let me know! Would love to feature your rendition of my artwork on my Instagram Story! 😊

Click HERE to download an A4 PDF file that includes:
1 Card
1 10cm x 13cm Print
1 7cm x 9cm Print
1 4cm x 5cm Print

Click HERE to download an A4 PDF file that includes:
2 Cards

Click HERE for a wallpaper for your phone.

Click HERE for the sketch, you can use it to paint your own Rudolph! 

Some notes that might be of help:
I always print my prints on A4 matte photo paper (170gsm) and this pdf is catered to my printer, hopefully it will work well on yours too! I usually set it as coloured, photo quality, and scale to 97% so that they won't cut off anything from the file (you might have to trim some whites off).


If you've seen my Newt's Suitcase from Fantastic Beasts And Where To Find Them video, you'll see me adding a hinge on the suitcase!

I wanted to make a suitcase that can be opened and closed, and for that to happen, I'd need to put some sort of hinge.

Now, I'm pretty sure that somewhere online, you can buy properly made hinge for miniatures. I've actually seen them before and wanted to get them but didn't...so when I was making the suitcase I decided to make one myself. 


This is how they look like when they're by itself!

Of course, machine made ones will definitely be neater and perfect (and actually the same size....), but if you need a hinge right here right now and you can't wait a few weeks for your online purchase to be delivered to you, just know that you can make one yourself! 

Materials you'll need:

1. Metal Paper
I got mine from a local art store (Art Friend) and they sell pieces of metal paper that are thin like paper and you can cut it with scissors.
You want it to be stiff to a certain extent - aluminium foil would be too soft! But canned drinks' would be perfect (although you would have to paint it afterwards)! 

2. Scissors
I used a normal pair of scissors, nothing special 🙃

3. Nose Pliers (Optional)
Optional but good to have around for its flat surface.

4. Round Nose Pliers
VERY IMPORTANT. The main action can't be done without this!

5. Cutting Pliers
To trim your headpin (see 9.)

6. Sanding File
Use to shape your hinge! You can use scissors too, but it's easier to control with a file 😊 Also, if you need just a little extra bigger gap, it's nice to have to expand accordingly. 

7. Curved Needle Tool
To "sketch" out what you need to cut on the metal paper. You can use any kind of needle tools or anything that can make a mark on the metal paper 😀 

8. Resin Two Part Epoxy Glue
I got mine as a gift from @msparkpark, but if I'm not mistaken, you can get them in Daiso! 
You can use super glue too, as long as it can stick metal to metal. 

9. Headpin
I use a headpin because it's straight and stiff but yet easy to cut with a cutting plier 😊 

STEP 1: Sketch out Part A and Part B on metal paper.


This is how it should look like when you use your needle tool to "sketch" on your metal paper 😊 It would be very obvious so you can cut without the fear of screwing up like I was 🙃 

You can also measure and draw on the metal piece with a marker instead if you prefer - I did a rough sketch instead and have no measurements unfortunately.


Regardless, you'd want these two parts for each hinge! They shall be call Part A and Part B 😀 

STEP 2: Make Part A

Cut the lines as sketched, bend the middle strip with nose pliers, and then cut it out with your scissors! 

I used the file to file down the part where I can't cut (it's impossible to!!)

Then with the nose pliers, I roll the strips towards the "body", make sure it's right in front of the "body" and not ON the "body"! You need the space for the hinge to move. 


I use the normal nose pliers to do some adjustments needed, like making the rolled strips rounder. 

STEP 3: Make Part B

Do the same for Part B, but make sure you trim out the correct strips!

If it gets stuck, just use the nose pliers to twist it out like this 😊 I rather cut through less than more, because if you accidentally cut through the strip that you need, it might become fragile and loose. 

Here I'm using the normal nose pliers to roll the stripe instead. It works, but you'll need to adjust the rolled strip a lot more as it's not rounded.

STEP 4: Attach Part A and Part B with a headpin

And this is why you want the rolled strips to be round, because you want to fit the headpin through! 


You can tighten the rolled strips with round nose pliers too (as shown above), so the headpin doesn't drop out as easily 😀 

I trimmed the ends of the headpin as flushed against the sides of part A as much as I can with the cutting pliers after this. 

STEP 4: Make the headpin stay with glue

Here I'm mixing the epoxy glue together well before I use it. I like epoxy glue as they will dry up really well and it basically stays permanent, which is really crucial for things like this.

I essentially glue the ends of the headpin to Part A. You want to make sure ONLY that area gets the glue. Part B should be able to move freely and that's how the hinge will work! 😍 

I then use the file to shape the hinge by sanding the edges so it's rounded! Again, they should be able to open and close like this 😊 

I know their size is slightly off, and that's because I did NOT measure anything and no ruler was involved...I sure wish I had put a bit more effort to do that though. Next time I'll make sure to make it as neat and straight as possible! 

A gif from the video to show how I put the hinge on the suitcase 😊 

I used the same epoxy glue, and made sure one side is completely dried before I glued the other side! It worked really well and to be honest I was quite relieved that it did hahahahaha. The hinge could have been too loose or too tight etc and doesn't open as smoothly and all 😱 I guess checking it thoroughly before gluing it down helped! 

So here's how I made the hinge! Hope this helps you and shows you that it really isn't as difficult as it seems. If you have all the materials and can't afford to spend the money or wait, feel free to give this a try! 😊 



For clay sculpting, it's very VERY important to have a proper tool to cut or slice the clay into pieces that you need. Honestly, I really can't imagine doing anything without any tools with sharp edge!

Hence if you are starting out and would like to buy some tools, I would recommend the x-acto knife and blade to be of priority!

Below are the knife and blades that I have, and I'll explain how I use them 😀 



This x-acto knife #2 is the first and only knife that I have, and I use it for everything! (Even cutting paper, opening things etc - very convenient to have). I think I got it at Art Friend, a local art store, and it should be relatively easy to find! 

It comes with a cap, but I don't use it and have no clue where it is now.......especially since I don't bring it out, it's alright for me haha. 

There are lots of hobby knives available in the market, but I recommend x-acto as they have a lot of different types of blades available and sold separately, which makes it very easy to replace them! Blades can rust/dull after a period of time, and even though for clay making you don't need exceptionally sharp blades, it's nice to replace them after awhile. 

When I mean there are different types of blades....there really is A LOT. But this particular one is the one I use. I really should try other blades some time! (If I do I'll update this space!)

Anyway, it's not THAT expensive, so might as well get one with higher quality than those penknives! (Really, it feels very different when you use it!)

For blades, even though they are sharp (and meant to be sharp), if you know how to use and control them, it's very rare to cut yourself: 



Blades are actually quite safe ON THEIR SIDE. So if you get clay stuck on them, you CAN remove them without hurting yourself from the side! 

WARNING: This is after YEARS of handling blades, and I use a blade for A LONG TIME so some of them might be more blunt than usual. Please exercise caution AT ALL TIMES and be careful when handling any kind of blades! (Especially brand new ones!)

Here's an example of cutting a clay piece with my x-acto knife! You will not be able to do this with anything else other than a blade! (even flat piece of wood or plastic knife, let's say, would "squish" the clay instead, or it would leave some clay residue at the end) 

My favourite part about the x-acto knife is how precise it can be for certain things. One of the most common usage for the knife for me is to use the knife to trim off unbaked clay ON baked clay. 

You don't have to use strength to do this btw! You might accidentally scratch the baked clay at the bottom. It takes a little bit of practice but very easy to get use to 😊 


In this video, I use this technique most of the time! (Video is timed at the exact moment)

And of course, textures! Hahaha as long as it's there, might as well use it! (Although I still haven't used it for anything yet hmm)


AmericanLine Wide Scraper Blade:


THIS is my favourite blade ❤ 
I got it from PolymerClayExpress.com in Feb 2015 and it's not expensive at all??? Plus, it comes with like 5 blades or something and I still have one extra now haha. 

I also got a blade case from them to store all my blades, which makes it much safer to store them, and also helps to prevent oxidation which keep the blades as new as possible. Putting a packet of silica gel helps too! Silica Gel is everythingggggg


Btw the current blade I'm using IS rusting, and unfortunately it will rust very fast especially if you're lazy like me and don't store the current blade you're using properly all the time.. Look at the comparison of the new blade (top) to the one I'm currently using (bottom) 😅 

Rusting will happen as long as it's stainless steel, and if the blade ISN'T stainless steel, it's very difficult to have that quality of sharpness so I guess you just have to see what your priority is!

It really is no big deal though, just wipe it and make sure it doesn't stain your clay and usually it's still sharp enough to do its job! 

This blade does its job VERY well, and I think the length of the blade really helps! I can also cut bigger pieces of clay properly with this! (x-acto knife is too short for such things)

When using the blade, you want to be careful and use the blunt side of the blade to press the blade down. Otherwise you're just going to cut yourself and the clay doesn't cut through properly 😶 So yes please be careful. ALWAYS be careful!!!



Here you'll see how I use the blade to make straight lines as "textures". That's when I don't push the blade down all the way, and only making an indent with it. 

Usually the sharp side of the blade is rarely used for such things, but I think it's nice to know you CAN mark things with it. 

The blunt side is more useful for such techniques! Look how easy it is to make a “chocolate bar”?? Hahaha. (I need to make one soon 🙃)

I also use the blade to make sharp edges round if needed, by pushing the clay with the blade. It can cause some unevenness to the clay's height, but you can always flatten it again! 

Aiclay's Pocket Kitchen blade:

I got the tiny blade with a handle from Aiclay's Pocket Kitchen, and I don't use it as much! Like I said, I prefer the blade above, and I'll show you why. 

Aiclay's blade to me is a safer blade as there's a handle on it. Makes it very easy to see where the sharp side is (especially for beginners, THAT'S really very important), so you get a much more kid-friendly blade with all the sharpness you need there! 

It's very short so it's compact too, BUT for me I'd rather a longer blade so I can cut bigger clays better! (Aiclay's Pocket Kitchen tutorials' are all miniature food, so you really don't need long blades for that) 

One of the most important technique I use with the blades is to scrape flattened clay pieces out from the working surface. If you try to pry it up with your finger or fingernails, you'll most likely going to distort the clay!

For this, you need to make sure you go in a swift, ZIGZAG motion while moving to other side. If the clay piece is too big, you need to "catch it" and hold it while continuing the motion. (Just do it! Don't ZIGZAG too slow otherwise it might get stuck on the blade)

So for Aiclay's blade, because it's so small, I have to hold it really close to the part where the blade cuts through the clay so it's quite hard to manoeuvre the blade for one. 

You can see the clay kind of distorting for huge clay pieces like this (which I work with most of the time), and the handle kinda makes it so that I have to "hold the clay" earlier compared to the first blade. 

I think it's quite difficult to understand what I mean unless you try it out yourself, but hope it gives you some sort of idea. 

This is what I mean when I say they clay gets stuck ON the blade!

For the small blade, it's hard for me to go through the clay (zigzag) all the way as I subconsciously think about the handle (and how the clay might distort if push itself against the handle). Hence you will tend to go slow when it's reaching the handle of the blade, but what happens is part of the clay that is still stuck on the working surface gets distorted anyway because it's still attached while the others is moving! 

That's why going fast is important haha. (Or at least have the habit of "catching" the clay piece halfway and move along with the blade like I've shown)

If the clay gets stuck, you can remove it like this! (Remember how the sides of the blades are safe? This is why it's important!) 

Sooooo, like I said, it's really more of a convenience thing. Aiclay's Pocket Kitchen's blade is still very much useable and you might even like it better! I'm just stating my opinion on the type of tools I use and prefer, and I still stand by my opinion that Aiclay's Pocket Kitchen Kit is the best and completed polymer clay kit in the whole world. 



The handle for Aiclay's blade made the thickness of the blade thicker, hence the indent is thicker too! I kept this blade for this sole purpose because it can be quite useful. 

Fimo Cutter Blade Set - Flexible blade:

I bought this fimo blade set reaaaaaaaaally long ago, and I must say, I actually forgotten about them until I took out my blade case and saw them inside HAHAHA. I kept them as I thought they might be of use, but obviously I didn't need them... 🙃  

This flexible one is interesting. Somehow I always thought blade is ALWAYS hard (penknives, razor blades etc) so when I saw this I was quite amused. 


BECAUSE it's bendable, it doesn't stay straight very well 😂 So it's actually pretty useless unless you really need whatever you're cutting to be curved. (But you can shape the curved part with normal blade like I've shown...so......🙃)

Also, there's only up to a certain extent where you can bend it, which isn't much when it comes to miniatures..... 😶 

So yes. Useless for me. Might be useful for other things though, and if I find out what I'll update!

Fimo Cutter Blade Set - Flexible ripple(?) blade:

The fimo blade set also came with this flexible blade with textures on it, so you can cut the clay and leave this neat triangles at the edge!

But the thing with this blade is that the texture is FIXED. I can't adjust the size and it's quite limiting? I've also never found anything that I can use this with, although the texture IS very cute hahaha. 

So yes, until I find some sort of use to it....it will remain useless for me. Sorry fimo!

Alright, so that's all I have for knives and blades. Will update if there's anything I missed out, or if anyone asked me questions that I can answer here! 

Screen Shot 2017-06-29 at 11.33.17 PM copy.jpeg

If you find this article helpful and would like to read and learn more about how I use certain tools etc, do check my Patreon out! I write one such article weekly, with real time gifs and detailed explanations 😊 

Above is the contents section of what I will write about in the future in "The Secrets" section available exclusively for Patrons in my Patreons. As long as I explore new things and further my clay journey with your help and support, I will continue to share what I learn and my ”secrets” with anyone who would like to know! ❤ 


The newest gadget that has officially change my habit of drinking water - in a VERY GOOD WAY 😍

Hidrate Spark 2.0

I've been struggling with the concept of drinking enough water since forever 😅 

When I was still living with my parents, my mum would constantly bring me water while I study or having my eyes glued to the computer, and she would then forced me to finish one cup of water, or nag till I finish it 🙃 

It was just something that was a hassle to me? LOL. I had to take a cup, and wash it afterwards you know?!? LOL #ultimatelaziness 

After I moved out, I realised that I've been drinking lesser and lesser water. We would refill the water jug, but it'll STILL be full by the time ET comes home 😅 My only source of water would be from sweet drinks from lunch/dinner since it's there and convenient 😵


Hence when I found out about the mokit seed bottle, I actually purchased it on their Kickstarter. 



Basically I was relying on it to come and didn't buy any other bottle and was still drinking not enough water per day lol 😐 

After I checked it few weeks ago, I realised that it really isn't gonna happen, and asked my partner to ask for a refund (he helped me bought it). The reviews were SO BAD. They basically went MIA and people didn't even get their refund!! 😱

I then looked for alternatives, even though I was still scared that the same thing would happen 😣 That's when I found out about Hidrate Spark

To be honest, their reviews were mixed too. BUT there were actually GOOD REVIEWS! So I was like "ok maybe I should give it a go" 

I received the bottle WITHIN A WEEK 😅 

If only I had known about it sooner!!!

It came in a very simple and well designed packaging 😍 (always very happy with gorgeous packaging hehe) 

And my first thought was:

"Wow it's so light?!?"

I honestly imagined that it would be heavier, but it being lighter is such a good plus point!! 😍 I hate it when my bag is heavy and it makes me sweat and uncomfortable etc, so this actually allows me to bring my bottle out without even thinking about how heavy it is?? (Hence drinking less canned drinks woop!)

I don't want to get into the benefit of water because I am sure everyone KNOWS how water helps with almost everything???? 

Sick → drink water

Tired → drink water

Diet → drink water so you feel fuller before you have your meal = eat less LOL

Ok these are the common ones I know, but they gave 4 examples HAHA

And here are the features for the bottle! 😍✨

SYNCS WITH YOUR PHONE VIA BLUETOOTH to a hydration app (more about that later) 

TRACKS YOUR WATER INTAKE via the app (which I think is a good form of motivation + good for people who over drink HAHA I heard that's a problem 😵) 

BOTTLE GLOWS!! YES this is really awesome and truly helped me especially when I work :') 

NO CHARGING, which means no "port" for you to worry about water damage 😅

It comes with a manual too! 

I've always been a manual reading person, but usually the manuals are just random things that are of no value. 

But THIS. I recommend going through it before you do anything!!

It has everything and is so detailed! Literally all your questions will be answered in this manual haha 👍🏻 


"Can the bottle be washed in a dish washer" (YES) 

"Can the sensor be washed in a dish washer" (NO) 

Everything is USEFUL unlike the other manuals so I actually enjoyed reading them, with very clear illustrations!

I actually thought I had connected my bottle in the beginning, but I didn't and I actually thought it was spoilt and was so upset LOL 😅 

Turns out I didn't connect properly, and it was this photo that made me realised that ("___tells you if you've connected the bottle") 

I've read tons of comments saying that their bottle doesn't work, or the sensor stopped working...maybe it's because they didn't follow instructions? Cause you really can't get anything wrong if you do read la tbh 😅

The manual also contains things like "ensure the arrow is pointing towards the same direction and parallel to each other to ensure the water doesn't leak."


I've had bad experience with leaking water bottles so I really appreciate this :')


I downloaded the app almost immediately when I got the bottle, and seriously it makes the whole drinking water experience so much better 😍


Once I got the bottle and connected it, they asked me to key in my particulars! 

I also very honest and said I wanted to drink water cause I wanna lose weight HAHAHA 🙃 (my weight keep fluctuating between 55kg to 57kg sobs)

Also they will ask how active you are, cause I guess the water intake will be different depending on that!

They also ask you what time you sleep so the bottle won't glow and disturb your sleep!! So considerate??? This really shows how they thought through everything haha 👍🏻

Although it did took me a few tries (two actually) to connect the bottle and figure out how to put the sensor so it doesn't get wet etc, it was really easy once I got it and also understood how it works!


The app itself is really well designed and smooth, and I love how easily accessible everything is! ☺ 

Right in the middle, you'll see how much water you have consumed today, and based on your information (mine = not active AT ALL LOL) they will calculate how much water you need to consume for you! 👍🏻  You can adjust manually too if you have a specific goal in mind. 

There's also a flashing light which tells you that you're suppose to drink THIS MUCH water as of right now, so you know when to stop and not over drink for that moment 😊 

The sensor in the bottle will track how much you drink AUTOMATICALLY IN THE APP as long as it goes through the water bottle's mouth! 😊 

(If you want to throw away the water without it tracking it, just open the cap! I was stunned by how many people complained that the sensor tracked the water when they pour it out. READ THE MANUAL!! 😅) 

It does require Bluetooth to connect, but Bluetooth really doesn't drain a lot of battery 😊


Swipe to the left, and you'll see your previous day's goal! 😊 

At the bottom, you can also swipe right to see how much water you drank at what time! So cool right?? 😍 

It can also be connected to your Fitbit or Apple Watch etc, which I don't have so I can't really comment on that 😬


On the analytics side, you'll see a summary of a week's worth of water consumed 😊 

I love how they would combine the circles when you drank enough water a few days straight! 😍

(Btw I got the bottle on Monday night hence the first day was only half 🙃)


Another plus point about the app and the bottle is that YOU CAN TRACK YOUR BOTTLE'S LOCATION! 😱 

This is good for people who always lose their bottles, or keep having their bottles stolen by people (my friend who told me he want to get it cause his bottle keeps getting stolen so this would be helpful 🙃)

But this will require you to switch on location on your phone though and that would be quite battery draining, but it's ok I always have portable charger with me anyway 😝


What you see when you click on your bottle! 😊 


I use this to test if my bottle is connected and if the sensor is working 😊


You can also manually add water if you drink it from outside the bottle! 😊 

Like for example if I did drink canned drinks, I'll just add it in (even though it's sugared water it's still water right) 

Unfortunately you can't minus water off but you really don't need it if you just open the cap and pour water out the right way 🙃
(Sometimes accidents can happen, like spillage of water, which I understand, so it would be good if it's available in the future!)

I like how they give you a visualisation of the amount of water you want to add! Really makes it easier even if you have to guess how much water to add 😊


There are other things you can adjust to your liking, like push notifications from your phone (if your bottle is always out of sight) and how much glow you want your bottle to glow per day, how frequent, the type of glow etc! 

Mine is 3 white consecutively for 30sec 😊

White colour IS harder to see, and red does catch your attention better, but I like white with black more 😝 

The push notifications are really witty and sometimes sarcastic HAHAHA ("Stay thirsty my friend! Cheers 👍🏻") 😆 Makes it so much more interesting! 

For the bottle itself, to drink the water, you just have to press the button with the 💧 mark and it will pop open! 😊

They also provided a finger loop, which is quite comfortable to use and doesn't cut into your finger!! 👍🏻

I love how the pattern is similar to the bottle too 😍

It's also really easy to hold, and even though it's tall it doesn't feel bulky at all 😍 

The curve just fits into your hand like a dream 😌

Because the bottle itself is light, it's not straining on your hand too! I can drink with just one hand hurhur


(Photo from Hidrate Spark Website) 

They come in White, Green, Teal, Pink, Purple and Black!! 

They're all so gorgeous la but I love black too much 😝 Black just suits everything!

This is how the sensor looks like, and they even tell you which side to face the front so you can see the glow better (the flat side)

One of the thing I realised while using the bottle is that THE CAP STAYS THERE 😱 

Which means when you tip to drink water, the cap DOES NOT fall and hit your face!! 😂😂😂 

Idk why I noticed it, but whenever I drink water I'd be like "woah wow it didn't hit my face" 😆 

Especially since you drink from it directly (unfortunately they don't have straws haha), I think it's a very important part of the design aspect.


It really stays there even after tipping so much (if you down ALL the water I suppose you can get this angle 😂) 

This means you really can drink with ONE HAND ONLY!! No more supporting the cap or what, just click and drink! 👍🏻

They also sell batteries on their website! 

I think you can get these batteries relatively easy from watch shops or smth, but if you're gonna use the glow option and make it glow 10 times every day even if you're still on track (like me), it's good to have extras on hand! 😊 

(Battery drains faster if the glow factor is more frequent, as expected)


I do want to address the reviews I've read while researching this bottle. When I went to the Kickstarter page, many people did say that they didn't receive their bottle and they didn't get any answers from the company. 

I am not sure if those are resolved, because if they were, it's very rare that they will give an update right? People are lazy like that - they only complain when it benefit them and it's one sided. 

I only decided to give hidrate spark a try because I saw all the good reviews on their website (which is the most updated) 

Sure, it's their website, they can choose what reviews to keep or show or whatever, but it convinced me enough to give it a shot. 

The bottle I received shows that they are still making and delivering bottles and that the company is alive and doing well! 

Furthermore, it's been a few years since their Kickstarter project, so by now they would have experience tons of things and the bottle is already a better version (2.0) 

If you don't drink enough water like me, I really recommend you to give it a try, because I do see myself using this bottle all the time!

Some of the complains I saw (that doesn't affect me) was:

1. Glow not strong enough and doesn't vibrate (I put my bottle in front of me all the time so I always see it) 

2. Have to keep checking app to see water intake (mokit seed actually has the water consumption thing on the cap, which means you can click on it and check. It's nice, but I didn't even get the bottle, so.....)

I usually check the app when I'm bored anyway cause it's kinda like an incentive for me to drink more (MUST COMPLETE THE CIRCLE 😂) But it didn't really affect my work process or distracted me?? 

It's a good thing that the app is fast too so I don't spend a lot of time waiting hahaahahaha

3. Cheap plastic bottle (??? Erm well it's BPA free and all the other good things, and to be honest I'd rather it be light than heavy like metal etc) 

It also means that it's not insulated though, but the main reason why I got this bottle was to drink water, not cold drinks. You can still put ice or cold water if you want la but I want to just drink plain old room temperature water, so this works for me 👍🏻

4. Flimsy lid (But mine so sturdy leh??? Is it I lucky hahaha. I also dropped it 3 times since I got it 🙊🙈 and everything still works fine!) 

I do want to address all these because everyone has different priorities, and the bad reviews might put you off completely. But it works for me well so no complains from me definitely, and I recommend you to do your own research to see if you're ready to invest in this bottle!


Honestly, I didn't need a few weeks to write this review because I am really in love with it anyway 💕 AND I AM DRINKING SO MUCH WATER THAT THE WATER SITUATION AT HOME IS A MESS (we used to only need to boil water once every day for both of us, now I have to boil 3 times per day 😅) 

Now when I craft and work, which I spend most of my days doing and being all focused, it will basically gently nudge me to drink water (which I would because complete the circle HAHA) WITH ONE HAND and then I can get back to work, all within 10 seconds! :')

Also I have a bad habit of drinking directly from the spout from our shared water jug (remember #lazyass?) 🙊 My partner doesn't mind but hehe it's quite gross la 🙃 Now my bottle IS MY OWN WATER JUG 😍

Really no regrets :') 

If you want to get your own bottle, just head to their website at https://hidratespark.com/ 😊

Let them know I sent you! 😉

Brb while I go drink some water 😉

DISCLAIMER: This bottle was sent to me for an honest review based on my experience, and I WILL NEVER give false information. 

I truly enjoy using this bottle and want to share it with everyone, especially if you are looking for something similar (or if you got cheated by mokit seed too and lost faith in humanity but still want to believe lol)

END OF 2016

How time flies, it's already the last few days of 2016, and I'm going to Indonesia for a holiday with my family tomorrow! 

In the year 2016, I've really achieved a lot, and it was definitely the year that I've experimented with so many things with polymer clay (now even watercolour yey!) 

I have a couple of things in mind that I would like to write it down. They are quite "big" in the sense that it will affect a lot of things I do. 

One of the things that I want to improve in 2017 is to SPEND LESS TIME ON POINTLESS ADMIN WORK. Well okay that's a bit harsh. Maybe they're not pointless, but just useless to me.

Anyway, these changes will hopefully help me achieve that, and let me have more time on the crafting itself, and actually earning money to survive. 

I wish I have more than a pair of hands sometimes, but I just cannot afford to hire anyone to do the things I'd probably end up checking and correcting myself...so cutting off admin work is probably the best solution for me!


I started the mailing list few months back, thinking that it would be convenient for me and my customers who wants to order custom order to get notified when I reopen my custom order. 

But I realised that it was taking up too much time. 

Well in the beginning I did spend a lot of time making mailing templates and all which helped, but I was never one with words so I found myself stressing over how the email should look and what other things I should say to make the email I send every month refreshing.... It also takes time to craft the email itself, and eventually I found it becoming a waste of time. 

I realised that since now Instagram has the "switch on post notification" option (which I myself use quite a lot), people can just do that and get notified when I reopen custom order there. I've always thought of Instagram as the place I update stuff about handxmade the most, so it makes sense for me to direct people there. 

There's also less than 30 people who signed up my mailing list anyway HAHAHA #sadtruth. If there were at least 100 I probably would consider continuing it, but nah.

I thought that having mailing list would also help to make my business look more legit (wth haha), but it really started to not real make sense since it was just me opening custom orders, not having new content to share y'know? I also made this RSS feed thing, where those who sign up will be able to see my blog posts on my website via their email. But......it's not like I blog a lot anyway HAHAHA which goes to my next point.


Now I've been writing on my Dayre for more than a year, almost every day.

Not even exaggerating, I've been really consistent with updating my mundane life, about almost everything. Most of my customers even came from Dayre! 

Being an app that is entirely based on mobile, blogging has really become much easier! I always have my phone with me (seriously), while my desktop is always, well, at home and not aways accessible. I mostly blog while I travel from one pace to another! Entertain myself and basically making full use of my time wisely (Y)

I even have some content that was how I would have written it on my blog! But it's more refreshing cause I don't try to act serious (lol) and I can use emojis (which I do all the time) and Dayre's really cute and relatable stickers!

I also started using their hashtag function well, and putting #handxmadeblog when it's regarding handxmade, so that it's easy to look for. 

It really saves me a lot of time, since I don't really have to craft the blog post, and words just falls off easier there for me. I can totally see myself blogging about handxmade there more willingly than on a computer 🙃 

That's why, I won't even need the mailing list anymore HAHA. 

You can also access Dayre content on desktop, so I guess it's not as bad. 

Although they compressed the photos quite a bit, I've made a new gallery thing on my website so that new stuff will still be uploaded right here!


I've always thought of my website as a portfolio for my works, a place where I showcase all my work (even the shitty ones) to see how far I've come and how much I improved. 

That's why I try to post everything on my blog. ALL THE PHOTOS. But because I attempt to do that, I ended up with photos that has a lot of similar description I have for all my other blog post. WHICH IS SO BORING??? I mean yeah I do feel that way for that particular part of the figurine, but it's really the same. 

It feels like I'm trying very hard to write a blog post when I can't even express myself properly, and it's just for the photos. 



I've divided them into many different categories, so it's easier to go for the things you'd want to see the most. 

When you go in, there'll be tons of slideshows of images, and if you'd like to see more, there's thumbnails of the images so you can click on whatever you'd like to see!

I've made it so that each figurine will have their own photos in the slideshow, and there's even 2015's figurines! :') I really can see how much I've improved, my crafting and even photography skills. 

The newer ones will have a 360 interactive photo to go with it! Pretty hyped about that hehe. I'm still not sure if I want to invest some money for a better quality 360 photo hosting site...still thinking about it. But I definitely want to keep taking 360 photos of my figurines! It's just nice to be able to see them from different angles after the figurine is passed to their respective owner! <3

I've even linked the project's respective blog post at the end, and I'll do that for my Dayre posts too for the upcoming new posts!

For those images that doesn't have a blog post, I'll be writing small description and these will only be seen when you hover your mouse on the photo itself. Really think it's a good idea to have bits and pieces of stuff I want to remember about the particular order, and I don't have to do that for each photos yay!

Now, the figurines for 2016 are not all uploaded yet, because I realised it's actually really laggy and it takes ages to load T.T I've tried my best, to find code for lazy loading, infinite scrolling etc etc and thought about all kinds of idea for me to portray the images like this without having much lag. 

Like seriously the waiting time is quite horrible. WHO WILL WANT TO VISIT WITH SUCH BAD LOADING TIME??? This is especially true for my custom order figurines gallery, because that has everything from 2015 to 2016! 😱 

Each slideshow of a figurine would consist in average 10 photos?? And apparently it's recommended to not have 20 photos in a page HAHAHAHAHAH #shiet. 

So really.......I'm at a loss 😞 

I probably will have to separate them into different pages or link them through the first page....WHICH SUCKS because it's just better to see everything in a go la (imo)

I figured it will take me a while to get this done, so I decided to just let the news out before I revamp it again. It actually took me more than a month to finish uploaded everything from 2015 to 2016, and the thought of redo-ing the whole thing really makes me feel annoyed 😟 At least now I have the respective blog post correctly so I don't have to look for them again aye? LOL #thinkpositive


I have a couple of things in my head. If you look under GALLERY, you'll see a handxmade standard figurine section 😉 This will be revealed, hopefully, pretty soon, and it's basically a custom figurine but with some restrictions (hence also cheaper), and I'll explain the reason why I want to do it when the time comes hehe. 

I also want to have something which I can call my own, and slowly ease into that instead of taking custom order all the time.

Having stocks isn't easy when you don't know what you want to make, and that was the problem for me in 2016. I think for most artist, the best situation is where you sell the things you've thought about, and made yourself. Custom orders to me is more of like a quick and guarantee way to earn money, but I think every sales person will tell you that customer service is not easy. 

So the last few months or so, I've sat down a couple of times with my partner, and talked about what do I actually want out of my creation. 

I've always, ALWAYS, love watercolour, and I also prefer to make things that are useful or at least meaningful (like my custom order figurines.)

I tried making accessory holders with polymer clay, and painted with some watercolour (which I'm still new to), even experimented water colour on polymer clay like the penguins and lovebird (which failed badly HAHA)

So in 2017, I would like to combine all three things together, and come up with something that is made with polymer clay, is useful, and with watercolour 😍 

I always get excited just thinking about it, but really hope I can get to do it ASAP! Hehehe. Hopefully this gives some insight of what's gonna happen for handxmade in 2017. Although like most things, decisions made and what actually happens is entirely different in the end, I'm glad that I at least have some sort of direction. 

And with the reducing of admin work coming soon......I hope I'll have more time for more experimentation and come up with my own line of creation instead of just having custom orders! 😊

Now I just need to find a feasible solution for my gallery.......... 😶 

Hope everyone had a good year, and may 2017 brings you more joy and happiness!


This order was somehow quite tedious, because of miscommunications between my customer and I. I do hope that I will be able to avoid such things from happening again after some implementation! For now, I'm just glad that everything else went past relatively smoothly, and I completed it! ^.^

I got a message from her saying that she didn't like the air bangs I made for my previous order (head here to see), so I decided to improve on it better and more realistic, making it kind of floats - like real air bangs. 

Here's how it looks like from another angle! 

This was really difficult to make, and it could be potentially fragile. The fringe is still flexible and bendable, but if you press hard enough, it MIGHT break. >.<

So if anyone else wants this style for their fringe....I need to charge more, but at the same time need to tell them that it might be fragile.....

But I guess it's really up to the customer, and if it's going to be a decoration item, where you just put in a spot and not use it....I think it'll be fine!

I kinda like this new oval shape base, where the bottom is slightly slanted! Now you can see the imprints better hehehe. 

The male also has shaved sides, and I found a way to make it look more realistic! In the past my shaved sides still looks like hair, just lesser...but now you can actually see skin! (Y)

I've also reinforced the base to figurine MUCH better now! The legs are actually attached to the base through the bottom, and they're not attached with just liquid clay! 

This also means that I don't have to make a deeper imprint on the base, and now the figurines actually looks like they're standing on a platform (especially for concrete looking base), not squashed! (See below photos and take note of the legs to know what I mean!)

Here's some WIP! You can see what I mean by the base here better ^.^

A few more photos to end this post. 

Really glad that my plan of a much more secured base to figurine worked out, and although it IS a bit more tedious, I really think spending the time to make it work is worth it ^.^ Better not risk even a slight chance of the figurine getting detached from the base!

Also, I learnt how to make and bake something to make it float, so I totally gained EXP out of this order hehehe. Sometimes things aren't all that bad!